How to Install Iron Or Metal Balusters in Wood Handrails

As promised I am putting forward information on the installation of iron balusters. During the day, one of the most common questions I get from customers is the how to of iron baluster installation.

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Many building codes require three balusters on a tread to comply with the 4" sphere rule. Check with your local code officials if you have any doubts about your stair's compliance.

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First, I let the customer know that the very last thing in balustrade installation is the iron balusters. It simply works well to install the newel posts, handrail, treads and risers first. Once installed layout the balusters on the floor and use a level to plumb up to the handrail center and mark the connection at the center bottom of the handrail. Using a ½" paddle or spade bit one can drill upward 1" deep into the handrail. Using a 5/8" paddle bit drill a hole no more than ¼" deep into the floor. Once these are drilled out the bottom of the handrail can be sanded with an orbital sander and the complete balustrade system can be stained and finished. Once the stain and finish is completed one can begin installing the iron balusters.

One of the following two tools is recommended for cutting iron or metal balusters: a power miter box with a metal cutting blade, or a portable band saw. My preference is the portable band saw. It works cleaner, is more portable, and doesn't cause sparking as does the power miter box (or chop saw).

Turn the baluster upside down and set the round dowel top into the hole in the floor, holding the baluster plumb to the hole under the handrail. Mark the baluster with a pencil, measure up 3/8" minimum and that would be the cut mark. Note that you are cutting off the bottom, not the top, of the baluster. This ensures proper alignment of the design elements.

For gluing the installer has two options: Epoxy or construction adhesive. My personal preference is construction adhesive as I have more control over the product and, if it gets messy, wipes away easily and can also serve as a caulk around the iron. Epoxy comes in the mixing tubes and doesn't always mix properly. If it gets messy and dried, removing the epoxy also removes the powder coating on the iron. Some carpenters prefer and have their own control over epoxy. I do not. I find construction adhesives easier to work with.

Squeeze a small amount of the adhesive into the hole under the handrail. The adhesive is thick and slow and will not drain back out, giving time to complete the installation. Make sure the shoe for the iron baluster is slid up while installing. Push baluster's round dowel up into the ½" hole under the handrail and then drop it into the 5/8" hole in the floor in a bed of additional construction adhesive. Square off the baluster's alignment then drop the shoe down to the floor. If the shoe comes with a set screw, use an Allen wrench to tighten it. The glue in the handrail hole will settle around the baluster creating a perfect seal. Once the glue has dried the baluster will be well secured, even helping to strengthen the handrails load.

When installing 5/8" iron balusters the process is identical, one only needs to drill a 5/8" hole under the handrail and a ¾" hole at the floor. 5/8" iron is ideal in remodeling work, when replacing wood balusters. Most installed wood balusters have a 5/8" hole under the handrail and a ¾" hole at the floor. If replacing wood balusters with ½" iron it is usually recommended to install shoes under the handrail to cover a small square peg in a larger round hole. The use of wood or cabinet screws helps to lock the baluster in, serving as both a wedge and forcing the baluster on center.

Round 5/8" iron or metal balusters can be installed without shoes simply by drilling a 5/8" hole into the handrail and into the floor and following the same procedure outlined above.

I have been asked about making the holes square. It is possible with a little more work. To cut the square hole in the floor or handrail, drill a round hole in the wood the same size at the baluster's overall width. Then chisel out the hole to make it square. Another option is a "mortising bit." I have not used one of these but have spoken with carpenters who have. Their comment tends to be that this method is a "pain in the you know what."

How to Install Iron Or Metal Balusters in Wood Handrails
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The Right Bed Frame Support For Your New Mattress Set

You've spent weeks shopping for just the right mattress set at just the right price, and you have finally found the one that is not too firm, not too soft, but just right. That's great news, Goldilocks! Now, it is time to shift your attention to what is under your bed and examine your bed frame.  

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Often the excitement of getting a new mattress set overshadows the reality that your new mattress requires proper support. You will enjoy a longer comfort life on your new mattress if you make sure it has the right support.
 
How can you be sure that your new mattress set has the right support? 
If your bed frame is metal and it is over 10 years old, make sure there is no squeaking or rattling when you roll over on the bed. Squeaking and rattling may indicate that your bed frame has weakened over time. It is probably a good idea to replace your bed frame if this is the case. Sometimes, mattress stores will give you a free bed frame with your purchase of a mattress set. Usually, this is the cheapest, least supportive bed frame available. You're better off asking for an upgraded deluxe model bed frame and paying for it. These last longer and are more supportive than the "free" ones most stores offer. 
 
If you have a wooden bed frame with wooden slats, make sure the slats are not bowing in the middle. Also, wooden slats are not enough for queen and king size bedding; you need at least one leg to the floor for queen size and two legs for king size. You can make a leg by having a piece of wood cut to the correct length at your local hardware store. Many companies offer metal center support slats that are far superior to wood slats. For the best possible support, choose a metal support designed for use with wood beds.
 
Following are some guidelines to follow for ensuring the proper support for your new mattress set: You need at least one rigid center support bar with one leg to the floor for queen size bedding and at least two rigid center support bars with legs to the floor for king size.   Wood center support slats should be at least 3/4 inch plywood.  If yours are not at least 3/4 inch plywood, consider a metal bed slat system like a Strong Arm, Bed Beam, or Bed Bridge support system.  Twin and full size beds do not usually require additional center supports, but with the extra heavy weight of today's bedding, it sure wouldn't hurt to add a center support bar. Refer to your mattress manufacturer's warranty card for detailed information about what support is required.

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The Right Bed Frame Support For Your New Mattress Set
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Platform Bed Frame and Foundation Combination Queen

Christmas Sales Platform Bed Frame and Foundation Combination Queen 201

Dec 14, 2011 22:28:08

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Christmas Sales Platform Bed Frame and Foundation Combination Queen Feature

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Heavy Duty Adjustable Full or Queen Metal Deluxe Bed Frame With Center Support & Rug Rollers

Christmas Sales Heavy Duty Adjustable Full or Queen Metal Deluxe Bed Frame With Center Support & Rug Rollers 201

Dec 13, 2011 22:37:19

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Christmas Sales Heavy Duty Adjustable Full or Queen Metal Deluxe Bed Frame With Center Support & Rug Rollers Overview

Heavy duty steel bed frames engineered to support today's thicker, heavier mattresses Sturdy Construction Consists of 1 - 1/2" by 1 - 1/2" side rails. Standard height from floor to siderails is 7 - 1/2". Construction uses keyslot crossarms to make assembly easy, and locks securely in place. Center bar with Glide provides additional support.Locking legs create triple thick steel layer at corners, and are recessed for safety. Four 1-3/4" rug rollers provide easy mobility.Headboard brackets will accomodate virtually any headboard configuration. Features a one-year manufacturers warranty against defects and workmanship.Easy to assemble in under ten minutes and no additional tools are required. Fits the following mattress sizes: Full & Queen.



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Parenting in the Homeschool - Homeschooling Adopted and Traumatized Kids

Last summer as we struggled to parent our newest family members I never would have guessed that I would have the time, much less the inclination to write an article about home schooling adopted kids in just ten short months. However, because of the techniques we've learned from books such as "Beyond Consequences, Logic and Control", and "The Connected Child", seminars like the one we attended in February of 2007 with Juli Alvarado, and the incredible support and prayers of our family and friends-our family has stabilized and our home has become a haven instead of a war zone.

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Home schooling my three kids is one of the greatest joys and most undeniable challenges I've ever faced. My kids are 9, 7, and 6 and my biggest trial lies in teaching not only to their intellectual ages, but also to their emotional ages. I am certainly no expert, having home schooled for only three years, but I am hoping to give some good suggestions about establishing routines while still remaining flexible, teaching to a child's developmental needs without sacrificing academic content, and some curriculum choices we have made in our family that seem to facilitate the type of learning many special needs kids thrive with.

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Let's get started talking about routines. I find that adoptive parents faced with extreme behaviors often do one of two things. They either set up such structure in their childrens' lives that their kids are stifled and stressed out, or they have no boundaries or expectations at all, choosing to excuse every behavior but never re-training their children in appropriate ways of expression. Neither path is helpful and when you home school there is no where to hide- you are responsible for their education and you have to have a plan. I have found that routines with flexibility offer the most hope for a peaceful home. Let me explain what that looks like.

In my house I have two boys that rise fairly early and a girl (the youngest) that is generally a late riser. Instead of dragging Rose out of bed before she is ready, and fighting with her all morning because she hasn't had enough sleep, I let her sleep in and use the morning to eat breakfast with the boys and focus on them. Often, we will play a game together after breakfast before they even get dressed. ( I try to be up, dressed, and have some quiet time before either of them get up.) Then, they get dressed and brush teeth. If my middle child, Gabriel, is being reluctant about dressing we set a timer and see if he can beat it. He loves any game and this always works. Usually by this time Rose is up and needs some snuggles so the boys play together while I tend to her and get her breakfast. Once she is dressed we start our "three Rs" with Mom bouncing back and forth between the three kids as they do their math workbooks first. Then, Ezra, my oldest, does his handwriting, grammar, and silent reading while I do phonics and reading with the younger two. If I need some one on one with Rose or Gabriel, Ezra is assigned reading aloud to the child who isn't with mom. The younger kids love this and it encourages closeness between siblings which is nice, since they have only lived in the same house for a year!

After an hour of this, the children usually need some exercise and are sent out to jump on the trampoline or I let the boys wrestle indoors if it's cold or rainy. During this time I get some chores done before bringing them back in for read aloud time. First, we do picture books relating to the unit we are doing at the moment (I'll talk more about Konos later, the curriculum we use for all the other subjects) and then we do a chapter book. The younger kids are not great at listening yet so they are allowed to play quietly on the floor with cars or Polly Pockets while we read the book that is geared toward the oldest. After we talk about what we just read, they are free to play until lunch. Following lunch we do our unit studies with all three children together. The Konos curriculum includes all Science, History, Music, Art, Drama, PE, Practical Living Skills, Geography and Bible for every child's needs. This curriculum is hands-on and we do the projects together, exploring each subject with a variety of mediums. My kids love this part of the day and are learning things I never thought they would be able to learn at such a young age because they are doing and discovering instead of just memorizing facts for a test. We do science experiments, learn about famous people, and act out moments in history. We take nature walks do dissections, and practice positive character traits using puppets or role playing.

The next part of our day is rest time. Most days this means playing quietly in rooms for an hour while mom regroups. Some days the kids actually need a nap and stay on their beds with books in the hopes that they will fall asleep. Directly following rest time is snack time and every other day we have 30 minutes of computer time for each child. (This is fun time where the kids choose a game to play.) On the other days I try to have an easy craft out that the kids can do mostly on their own while I clean and get dinner started. One thing we've learned is that TV spells disaster for our kids. Because of this, we've eliminated it altogether accept for the occasional movie. Craft time has replaced TV time in the afternoon.

By this time, Dad is nearly home and he often takes over after a brief conversation with Mom. He takes the kids on bike rides, plays games with them, reads stories, or has them help him with chores while I'm getting dinner on the table. After dinner everyone gets ready for bed and we listen to books on CD, read aloud as a family, or play a family game before bedtime for the little ones. Rose and Gabriel are in bed most nights no later than 8pm and sometimes earlier. Ezra gets to stay up for an hour after them to have time with us by himself.

Generally speaking, my kids know what to expect from our days and this makes a huge difference in their attitudes and behavior. What I just described would be considered a really good day-often I have to switch things up because somebody needs something slightly different. There are some basics that make up the skeleton of our days that don't change much. Morning routines, mealtimes, reading aloud, rest time, and bedtime routines are all essential to a successful day. Other parts can be lengthened; shortened, changed around, or eliminated altogether if need be according to what is going on in our home at the moment. Our day isn't regimented; it just has a flow to it.

Because we school year 'round, I don't stress if we have to snuggle on the couch for most of the day a few times a month. Having my kids in the right frame of mind for learning means I know when to push on and I know when to pack up the tough stuff for the day and call it quits. My main goal right now is to teach them to trust me, teach them character, and work consistently on reading. The other things will fall into place as their brains heal from the trauma they've experienced.

Typically, parents with adopted children have an extra layer of issues to deal with on a daily basis that makes home schooling especially challenging. Adopted children need so much from us that home schooling appears to alleviate problems that are often exacerbated by the public school system that doesn't often understand the adopted child as someone who needs an extra dose of understanding. The last thing we want in our human selfishness is to have to deal with all those issues ourselves with no "break"! I assure you though; the rewards far outweigh the heartaches.

Gabriel was attending a fabulous public school (while still a foster child) with a wonderful teacher, an amazing caseworker, and a staff bending over backwards to help our family. In spite of all this, we were experiencing behavioral problems at home because of the stress school brought into the equation. After six months of home schooling him, these problems are all but gone. We have slowly been weaning him from medications he's been on since the age of three and still we are seeing progress we never saw until the stress of public school was removed. Not everyone has the option to home school, but we have found it to be the best way to build the relationships in our family that will help our traumatized kids heal.

Update: My kids are older now (12, 9, and 8) but this article is still relevant. I wanted to re-submit it in the hopes it could encourage others.

Parenting in the Homeschool - Homeschooling Adopted and Traumatized Kids
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Christmas Sales Trademark 6-Inch Black Bed Risers, 4-Pack 201

Dec 12, 2011 22:47:58

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Christmas Sales Trademark 6-Inch Black Bed Risers, 4-Pack Feature

  • Instantly creates additional under bed storage
  • Either head or foot of bed can be raised for medical conditions
  • Holds approximately 1200-pound
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  • For use with stationary or lock-wheel bed frames only


Christmas Sales Trademark 6-Inch Black Bed Risers, 4-Pack Overview

These bed risers give you storage space you never had before. These sturdy blocks instantly elevate your bed for up to 6-Inch of additional under-bed storage space, perfect for those extra large storage bins. They are engineered to be incredibly strong, and can also be used to aid in the treatment of some medical conditions. These bed risers are perfect for any dorm room setting.



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Planning and Plumbing a New Bathroom Installation

Bathroom refurbishments, if carefully planned and budgeted, can be one of the most rewarding and satisfying DIY projects to undertake and deliver into a home. A tired, damaged or dated bathroom is like an irritating eyesore: it's a problem that constantly stares you in the face and it just gets worse each time you go there.

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Upgrading a bathroom suite or separate cloakroom and toilet does not have to cost a fortune, or commit you to unaffordable credit. I can't emphasise enough, when undertaking such a project, keep your investment within budget and don't be tempted by state of the art mod cons on display in bathroom centre showrooms, and builders' or plumbers' merchants' displays.

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The more you plan, the less chance of the project going down the pan!

Systematically write down a list of priority bathroom fittings and replacements, and then undertake your own research into what is available and where you can source it for the best possible price.

Choosing a New Bathroom Suite

Online research can source both local builders' merchants and DIY suppliers as well as the nearest plumbers' merchant's depot, or a specialist supplier from further afield.

Pre-set a total budget ceiling to purchase and install your new bathroom suite, and be sure to itemise each item you wish to secure be it a close-coupled toilet and cistern, pedestal and hand basin, bath, shower screen, shower head and riser support, and water and waste piping.

Look online at suppliers' websites and systematically check out their prices and delivery costs, and individual product specifications. Be sure to check product sizes, especially in areas of limited floor space like a bathroom, cloakroom, or bedroom en-suite. It is no use buying products from different suppliers if they won't easily fit in the floor layout you are planning.

Research is the key to keeping within budget and not getting tempted or carried away with expensive, state of the art bathroom designs.

Design Styles

With so many contemporary and classical bathroom designs to choose from, and so many architectural features to consider in homes today - it is to keep an open mind and conduct as much research online as you feel is necessary to get the best designs and the best value for money offers in the marketplace. Visit show rooms to get an idea of how things might look and paint a visual picture of the future of your bathroom. Don't get carried away, remember, you'll have limited room.

There are literally hundreds of traditional or contemporary designs to choose from and the decision will be a subjective one as it is your property you are upgrading.

Prioritise Requirements

Is it to be a plastic or steel bath you require? Or possibly a free-standing, Victorian roll-top design with clawed feet? Are you simply looking to replace an old, coloured, plastic bath with a new plain white design plus taps, washers, waste, and side and end panels? Is your project a major refurbishment job where an old bathroom suite and pipes need to be removed and replaced with a stunning new classical design?

Do you intend investing in an eco-friendly, contemporary suite with water flow controls to reduce excessive consumption? This is something worth considering if you are on a water meter or have a large family. These modern flow controls can reduce water consumption by up to 80% leading to health savings on your utility bills.

Discipline and tight budget controls are key to making the right decisions, as well as taking professional advice from any trade experts in your local showrooms.

Planning Your New Bathroom

It is extremely wise to draw out a new floor plan and immediately mark out your total floor space, entry door, waste exit point, hand basin, toilet, bidet, bath and shower positions, together with areas of travel for people to get in and out freely.

You also need to consider if an extractor fan is necessary. It can be essential if you plan to address the problem of condensation, especially in winter. It can be fitted into an outside wall or window, or with conduit tunnelling into an attic and across to an outside wall.

Electrics

Did you know it is illegal to install any electric wall sockets or plug socket systems into a bathroom, except a modern shaver socket and cover? Only ceiling light pull cords can be installed within the bathroom. Ceiling light wall switches can be installed outside the bathroom entry door on an adjacent wall in the hallway or first floor landing area. All electric fittings must conform with current I. E. E. wiring regulations and building regulations. If unsure, consult and commission a qualified electrician to advise you on re-wiring or planning any bathroom wiring requirements. Always get at least 2 quotations if you intend asking an electrician to complete the rewiring project, or test the existing electricity circuits before planning your extractor fan, or entertainment, lighting and electrical installations.

En-Suite Facilities

Not only might you be considering upgrading a bathroom or cloakroom, but you may also be planning to convert a small bedroom or box room into a new en-suite facility as the children grow up.

Again, careful consideration about budgets, designs and layout plans - (including drawings with standing areas clearly marked) - are the maxims to achieving success. Purchase of fixtures and fittings should not be undertaken before all your plans have been meticulously drawn, tested and approved by all the family.

Disposing of waste from an en-suite toilet, shower, bath or hand basin to the property's soil stack may not always be possible without installing a Macerator pump. Even if your new en-suite facilities are being installed on the opposite side if the house to an existing soil stack, it will be possible to complete the installation by adding a Macerator pump and 32mm waste exit pipes.

Removal of an Old Bathroom or Cloakroom Fittings

Listing the sequence of events - together with their estimated timings - is a very wise part of your bathroom conversion plans. Getting things done in the right order can make all the difference. Here is an example list to consider:

1. Fit stop cocks to pipes from cold water storage tank and hot water cylinder supply.

2. Turn off water supplies. Flush toilet. Turn on all old taps and drain off all water in existing pipes.

3. Remove old bath, toilet, hand basin, pedestal and toilet, including cistern and waste pipes. Be sure you have assistance, especially if removing a heavy steel bath. Ensure you have the appropriate tools like wrenches, power drill and driver, hacksaw and pipe cutters.

4. Start by removing the toilet and cistern tank. Disconnect the cistern downpipe to the pan first by unscrewing the nut beneath the cistern and then unscrewing the connection at the pan end. Remove any wall screws and disconnect the cistern. Then remove the pan floor screws and lift the pan from its flooring position.

5. When removing the pan, be careful not to damage its soil pipe. Cover the soil pipe exit with a cloth to prevent any debris from getting into the soil pipe.

6. Check for any damage or repairs needed in the floor boards or wall plaster after removing the cistern and toilet.

7. Continue by removing the pedestal and hand basin, by disconnecting taps and unscrewing all wall brackets to lift the basin and pedestal. Again check for any subsequent repairs to the wall or floor.

8. Remove Bath: Take out any side or end panels. Disconnect hot and cold taps using a wrench. Disconnect waste pipe and water supply pipes. Lift bath with help from an assistant. Manipulate bath out of the bathroom and remove from the building. Check for any damage to existing walls, plaster or floor boards.

9. Now plan the positioning of new water supply pipes and any waste pipes' exit routes to the soil stack.

10. Remove any remaining old fixtures and fittings like towel rails, toilet roll holders, bathroom cabinets, mirrors etc. Repair any screw holes in the walls using the appropriate plaster filler.

11. Have any old electric wiring or ceiling lights tested and take advice on their replacement, using a qualified electrician.

TRADE TIP: Do not remove any old fittings before you have purchased all the new replacement bathroom fittings and double check they are the correct size; come complete with all taps, washers, screws, waste pipes and supports; are neither chipped, cracked or damaged in any way whatsoever; and you have a reliable assistant to help with any lifting and removal of old fittings, and the installation of your new bathroom suite.

NOTE: Removal of lead pipes can earn you a few quid at the local scrap yard, and advertising old bathroom suites on a local RECYCLE/GREEN website can find a grateful new owner rather than dumping your old fittings into a local Council landfill tip.

Installing New Bathroom Fittings

Read all the manufacturers' fitting instructions carefully, first and don't start any new installations before you have checked through each component box, and double-checked that all the fittings and screws/piping pieces are included.

TOILET:

1. Connect the special plastic and rubber pan connector to the exit soil pipe, having first removed the soil pipe's temporary debris rag cover.

2. Then screw the pan into your bathroom floor using the manufacturer's screws supplied, together with their plastic head covers. Ensure it is positioned at the correct level using a spirit level.

3. Position the close-coupled cistern tank above and connect the water supply, plus water supply to the pan and the overflow pipe to its exit pipe.

Always fit an isolating valve to the new water supply pipes for simplifying any maintenance in future.

Bath and Hand Basin

1. Always check all components are complete in both product packages, including waste outlet pipes. Follow the manufacturer's fitting instructions to the letter.

2. Fit washers, taps, overflows and waste pipes first, before installing the bath and wash basin and pedestal in position.

3. Water supplies to the hand basin are from 15mm copper pipes and 22mm copper pipes for the bath.

4. Waste water from the hand basin will run away into its soil pipe through either a U-trap or bottle trap beneath the basin and it's new, 32mm plastic pipework.

5. Waste water from the bath will run into its soil pipe through new, 40mm push-fit, plastic piping.

6. Use the bath's two steel floor supports and adjustable feet beneath its design to create the water outflow along a suitable downfall by applying a spirit level. Don't guess this critical water downfall.

7. Fitting new servicing stop valves in the water supply pipes is a prudent move during these upgrade installations.

8. Fit both the new bath side and end panel as per the manufacturer's instructions using the screws provided.

Tiling and Decorative Finishes

Always be sure you are using waterproof wall tile adhesive and grouting when tiling around hand basins, baths, shower enclosures and wet rooms. Use professional plastic spacers when mounting each wall tile. Follow manufacturers' fixing and grouting instructions to the letter and you will then achieve a professional finish.

Do not affix wall tiles to a new bathroom floor. Ceramic or cork floor tiles, or a vinyl floor covering can be fitted to achieve an attractive finish to your bathroom everyone will admire.

Wall and floor tiles today come in a multitude of designs and surface finishes from slate, to earthenware or a high glaze finish, and in plain or patterned colour ways. Again, classical or contemporary designs are available to complement your new bathroom suite or cloakroom.

Be sure to invest in a tile cutter to fit all the tiles in any tight spaces, or around a bath or hand basin, or door frame.

Sealants

Before the new bathroom installation can be classed as waterproof and complete, you must seal any gaps between the bath and basin, and any adjacent wall tiles. Flexible, waterproof silicon sealants are essential to prevent any water dripping and damaging the grouting and plasterwork beneath your new bathroom or cloakroom walls and floors.

Furniture and Fittings

Embellishing your attractive new bathroom or shower room with furniture, mirrors or accessories will give it that ultimate finish, and provide storage for people's personal effects like towelling, shampoos, shower gels, hair sprays, deodorants and shaver systems. In addition, it's those little extras like toilet roll holders, glass shelving and artefacts that make it a statement worth delivering.

TRADE TIP: If using a power drill to make a screw hole into a glazed wall tile, place a criss-cross strip of masking tape onto the tile first and then mark the exact drill spot. Switch the drill to a slower speed and apply moderate pressure when starting to drill into the surface. This will prevent a sudden slip and damage to your tile surface. Withdraw the drill and increase the speed to achieve the finished depth required.

Affix all bathroom furniture and fittings only with the manufacturers' screws and wall plugs provided.

Congratulations - you now have a beautiful new bathroom everyone in the household is proud to use.

Planning and Plumbing a New Bathroom Installation
Frame Risers

Christmas Sales K45G-Heavy Duty Queen Metal Bed Frame with Center Support and 6 Glide Supports Fully Adjustable Queen, King, Cal King 201

Dec 11, 2011 22:56:53

Christmas K45G-Heavy Duty Queen Metal Bed Frame with Center Support and 6 Glide Supports Fully Adjustable Queen, King, Cal King Deals
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K45G-Heavy Duty Queen Metal Bed Frame with Center Support and 6 Glide Supports Fully Adjustable Queen, King, Cal King

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Christmas Sales K45G-Heavy Duty Queen Metal Bed Frame with Center Support and 6 Glide Supports Fully Adjustable Queen, King, Cal King Feature

  • No nuts bolts or tools required for assembly
  • Heavy Duty side rails and cross arms.
  • Adjustable to fit Queen, King or Cal King Beds.
  • Double angle iron rigid center for support and stability.
  • Sturdy construction; riveted; fit virtually all headboards.


Christmas Sales K45G-Heavy Duty Queen Metal Bed Frame with Center Support and 6 Glide Supports Fully Adjustable Queen, King, Cal King Overview

This fully adjustable heavy duty steel bed frame fits Queen, King or Cal King size bedding. This heavy duty bed frame has a double angle iron rigid center support with two legs to provide maximum strength and distribute the weight evenly supporting your box spring / foundation even in the middle. The heavy duty side rails and cross arms will adjust to fit queen, king or california king beds. No nuts, bolts or tools required for assembly.



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Counter Stools Wood

Garden Studios - The Relaxation Corner

People have different relaxation techniques, which could be generally classified in active and passive, some preferring to entertain themselves and others to simply rest in order to recharge their batteries. But whatever their favorite relaxation means, to the extent is not practiced outdoors, like fishing or hiking, anyone would like to have a secluded space for them. Because, no matter how large your house is, a room can never be as well sound-insulated as a separate building in your garden, all for yourself. And how could you really relax while you hear your children fighting over their toys or running up and down the stairs?

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But if you have a garden studio, nothing can disturb you. And you can't disturb the others either, if, for instance, your relaxing pastime is watching movies or listening to loud music. Actually, if you organize economically this spot, however limited in size, you can use it for any relaxation activity you have in mind. You can find the best use for the walls themselves, by installing plenty of shelves for CDs, videotapes, magazines or books or even the VCR, CD- or DVD-player. While supporting plenty of items, these will not require too much space. You can furnish the room with a sofa, an armchair with a footstool or an easy chair, whichever you find the most comfortable to sit on. Keep a sofa, nevertheless, in case you would like to lie or even sleep there. Besides these, a tea trolley or a small table is all you need. Place a large TV on the floor against the wall opposite your sofa and some speakers in the corners, don't forget some curtains to protect you against too strong a sunlight or drapes to keep away moonshine or any natural light, and you are ready for any type of relaxation.

Frame Risers

Do you relax by watching movies? All you have to do is to pull the drapes and push some buttons. Is your favorite relaxation activity listening to loud music? Well, that's why you have the speakers. Do you enjoy dancing at the same time? No problem, move the furniture items against the walls, if they are not already placed as such for saving space, and rock and roll. Are you rather the sedentary type? Well, you just need a basket with the knitting needles and some woolen thread; otherwise, all your snug seats are free. Are you relaxing when watching the World Cup finals, and you hate the noise in the nearby pub? You have your sofa and the TV and as many beer cans as you want in your small fridge in the kitchen.

If reading is your way of relaxing, you can get subscriptions or purchase your local newspapers, weekly fashion or design magazines or even books, if you are seriously-minded. You definitely have the best natural light in here, coming through your feature windows and glass doors, for perusing them at your leisure, or artificial light from the spotlights, if you relax rather in the evenings.

And last but not least, if you need and can afford your beauty sleep that a crying infant or your early riser-mother would prevent, what a better place to retreat for it than your garden studio? You can have your nap, siesta or night sleep tucked up snugly on your sofa, with your blinds down and just the quiet nature around.

Garden Studios - The Relaxation Corner
Frame Risers

Christmas Sales Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame 201

Dec 10, 2011 23:07:13

Christmas Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame Deals
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Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame

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Christmas Sales Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame Feature

  • Easy assembly (no tools required)
  • Rugged casters
  • Heavy-duty side rails with protective end caps
  • Extra-wide headboard brackets for a secure fit
  • Some Assembly Required


Christmas Sales Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame Overview

Durability and strength are the main features of the Instamatic Bed Frames by Fashion Bed Group. Attested to be the strongest bed frames made today these frames back up their claims with an original wedge-lock leg construction to provide exceptional dependability for ages to come. The Instamatic Bed Frame also features easy, simple construction that only takes seconds to build, so you dont spend ages frustrated over directions. Just simply wedge the side rails into the cross rails and youre done! Buy the last headboard attachable bed frame you will ever need with the Instamatic Bed Frame! Features: Silver Satin power coating finish Extra wide headboard brackets Available in Twin, Full, Queen, King and California King sizes Twin and Full sizes do not have a center support bar Queen and King sizes have a center support bar Hardy heavy duty side rails with protective end caps Recessed legs to prevent injury Quick and easy wedge lock assembly Lifetime warranty Specifications: Twin Size Dimensions: 7.2 H x 39 W x 75L Full Size Dimensions: 7.2 H x 54 W x 75 L Queen Size Dimensions: 7.2 H x 60 W x 80 L King Size Dimensions: 7.2 H x 76 W x 80 L California King Dimensions: 7.2 H x 72 W x 84 L



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How to Install the Perfect Steam Shower

What Should Be In Place Before We Start:

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WATER FEEDS:

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Firstly the hot and cold water connections, all steam cabins will work of a 15mm/1/2 inch connection. Somewhere behind the unit you will need a water supply for both your hot and cold ready to be adjusted to connect onto your steam unit. The connection on the back of the steam cabins valve will always be a 15mm or a '' male connection. The best way to make the connection between the unit and the supply is via 'braided flexible hoses'. Because of the way a steam shower is built away from its final resting position to allow the build of it, the braided hoses allow the flexibility required to move the unit back and forth. Connection via the hoses should be made to the 15mm threaded connection on the valve and some isolating valves fitted on the piping feeding the water supply to enable you to shut of the water to the shower if needed in future (good practice) and this also enables you to turn the water back on the house whist you carry on with the installation. The best units will come with these flexible hoses supplied.

WASTE PIPE:

To fully enable your unit to fit fully against the wall or corner desired, without the need to 'cut' or otherwise modify the unit, the wastepipe to the unit will need to be supplied under the floor. A 1 '' wastepipe with adequate 'downwards' fall should be located somewhere beneath the steam shower. Again because of the need the move the unit around whilst the build is taking place, the connection to the showers trap must be made by a 'flexible waste connector'. The best units will come supplied with these, if not, they are available to buy from any good hardware store.

ELECTRICS:

Most common steam shower cabins electric feed will be made by a 13 amp standard 240v connection (two if it has a whirlpool bath function). This is the single most important bit and with all electric works, especially when water is involved MUST be carried out by a qualified trades person. The Steam units require a 13 amp isolated fused spur to be fitted to ensure full water proofed connection. The sockets must be on a RCD to ensure safety and to isolate the unit if required. Your electrician will advise you on this, as I said a qualified tradesman must do the electrical fitting. The power within the unit is converted to operate the lighting and radio is converted to a safe 12 volts.

Building The Unit:

RULES YOU MUST NEVER FORGET!

1. PTFE, which stands for Poly Tetra Fluoro Ethylene or as a plumber calls it Plumbers Tape For Everything. Should be used on every 15mm/ '' connection.

2. Don't screw up and screws tight until the end. This allow the panels and glass to move and twist into position as you go.

3. Check every component before you start

4. Do you need a PEV? Pressure Equalising Valve? Thisonly protects the life and functionality of any shower valve but also helps ensure constant temperatures.

5. If it's possible to fill the tub or tray with water before you start to check of cracks of leaks, do so.

6. After the installation is complete, leave the unit 24 hours to let the any silicone to fully set before use

BASE/TUB:

Ones everything is in place and you're ready to go, spanner in hand, the first obstacle you'll face is the tray or tub base to the shower itself. First port of call is to fully connect and ensure the watertight connection of the trays trap and waster pipe. Ensure all rubber gaskets and fittings are tight and well fitted, it might be an idea to our some water into the trap or fill the tub to ensure there's no drips at this stage as it's easier to access. Second, is to fully level the tray or tub via the adjustable legs. Check, check and check again, having the tub fully level is essential to the rest of the build to not only ensure its stands straight and upright, but also to ensures all connections are made whilst the individual components are without any gaps and are 'sitting' as they should be.

WALL AND CONTROLL PANEL:

This is when you'll need two people. First look over every panel and the back of the control panel and tighten up and connections to the valve, water jets and anything that you can see, as many are only hand tight for transport purposes and will not initially be water tight. First thing you will need to do is place the 'back panels' onto the tub and all but tighten up there connections to the base, don't tighten these fully yet, leave them with the fixings to hold them in place but slack enough to allow them have some maneuverability. Then place in the control panel, the best steam shower units will have either a rubber or plastic strip running along the lengths of where the panels meet to ensure a waterproof fitting, Otherwise it would be more than wise to run a small bead of silicon down the lengths, it's better to use too much silicon than too little as any excess can simply be wiped off.

DOOR FRAME AND GLASS:

With your shower now looking something like a shower. The next thing to tackle is the framework for the glass doors. The best way of doing this is to build this up separate from the shower itself and lift it into position on its completion. The connection screws for the framework is notoriously tricky to put together so first ensure you have enough space around you to fully manipulate and move the framework around. Starting at the bottom up, first attach the two sides to the base piece, and then the top framework. Then install any 'fixed glasses' and support/holding pieces into the framework. Once this is done, lift the framework onto the shower tray or tub, again using silicone if necessary tighten up the connection between the framework and panels. REMEMEBER nothing should yet be screwed up tight to allow all pieces to fully fall into place throughout fitting.

ROOF:

The Roof is usual the home to all the main functions and features that come with a steam shower. Carefully lifting the roof onto the shower, ensure all holes 'marry up' as they should. (it not as important to silicone between the roof and panels that it sites on, as this should be at a level where volumes of water shouldn't be getting to)

CONNECTIONS:

Now it's probably the best time to fix any shelves, riser rails and any other components that come with the shower to the unit itself and to fully tighten up all the screws and fixings on the shower that have been left, check before doing this that every panel and piece fully stand and fit as they should. Also it's a good time now to connect the electrics to the supply and connect all the connections to the fan, speakers or any other connections that need to be in place. It's also possible now to connect the hot and cold water via the braided hoses. All connection should be straight forward and labeled to match each other. The steam generator will most communally have three connections to it 1st the water supply, which is most communally located in the middle and feeds from the shower valve or directly from the cold water feed. 2nd the steam outlet, which is positioned the highest of the three and feeds to the steam outlet on the unit and finally the 3rd which is the water drainage, this will in most cases fit to the waste via a pipe that's attached to it on a spigot.

DOORS:

Hopefully if I haven't missed anything out the last thing you should be left with is the doors to the unit. Before you fit theses it's a good idea, as with any shower enclosure, to run a small bead of silicone along the lengths of the panels and tray/tub to ensure a waterproof fitting. This is not always necessary but does greatly add the water integrity of the unit, Then depending on the quality of the unit spend a couple of minutes looking for any gaps of weak points on the frame work where any water may penetrate. Finally the doors, using the door cams provided simply fit these to the frameworks 'runners' adjusting them to fit and slid straight via the adjustable cams.

THE FINAL CHECK:

First run though all the functions both electric and water, checking on top, behind and below for any leaks, drips or any sign of anything out of place, BE THOUROGH!! After this is all ok which it will be if you have followed this guide, it's time for the final check, put the valve onto the shower head and spray away! Methodically spray the corners then up and down the connected lengths, move to the next, along the bottoms and in turn spray everywhere, with one person spraying and another behind the unit to check for complete water integrity before sliding the shower happily back into its final resting place.

That's it, you're done. Relax.

Hopefully along with this guide and a little thinking from yourself your shower is now perfectly installed and ready to use. A steam shower is a fantastic luxury item that is absolutely fantastic place to relax and unwind, and when installed correctly is a lifelong, endurable feature for your bathroom.

For more articles like this one please visit us

How to Install the Perfect Steam Shower
Frame Risers

Christmas Sales Black Bed Risers - Set of 8 (Black) (1" H x 4" W x 4" D) 201

Dec 09, 2011 23:14:30

Christmas Black Bed Risers - Set of 8 (Black) (1
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Black Bed Risers - Set of 8 (Black) (1

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Christmas Sales Black Bed Risers - Set of 8 (Black) (1" H x 4" W x 4" D) Feature

  • Color: Black
  • Size: 1" H x 4" W x 4" D
  • Stackable, Interlocking Design
  • 600 lb. Capacity Per Leg
  • Durable Polycarbonate


Christmas Sales Black Bed Risers - Set of 8 (Black) (1" H x 4" W x 4" D) Overview

Forget the troubles of finding a storage place for clothing, toys, shoes and personal items. The black "Raise Its" bed risers give you more room under the bed for taller storage containers! These stackable bed frame risers come in black and clear, allowing you to coordinate better with your bedroom furniture. For safety reasons, it is recommended that no more than 3 Raise Its be stacked under each leg. Each unit will raise the bed by 1", so a set of 8 can raise a four legged bed frame by 2". They're also helpful if you simply prefer to have a taller bed. These bed leg risers are made of durable plastic with interlocking design for safe stacking and non-slip inserts to prevent sliding! These bed risers fit most leg types, including casters! Sold in sets of eight. Made in the USA! Assembly level/degree of difficulty: Moderate. Made in America



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Black Bed Risers - Set of 8 (Black) (1

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Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame

Christmas Sales Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame 201

Dec 08, 2011 23:08:00

Christmas Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame Deals
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Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame

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Christmas Sales Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame Feature

  • Easy assembly (no tools required)
  • Rugged casters
  • Heavy-duty side rails with protective end caps
  • Extra-wide headboard brackets for a secure fit
  • Some Assembly Required


Christmas Sales Queen Fashion Bed Group Instamatic Bed Frame Overview

Durability and strength are the main features of the Instamatic Bed Frames by Fashion Bed Group. Attested to be the strongest bed frames made today these frames back up their claims with an original wedge-lock leg construction to provide exceptional dependability for ages to come. The Instamatic Bed Frame also features easy, simple construction that only takes seconds to build, so you dont spend ages frustrated over directions. Just simply wedge the side rails into the cross rails and youre done! Buy the last headboard attachable bed frame you will ever need with the Instamatic Bed Frame! Features: Silver Satin power coating finish Extra wide headboard brackets Available in Twin, Full, Queen, King and California King sizes Twin and Full sizes do not have a center support bar Queen and King sizes have a center support bar Hardy heavy duty side rails with protective end caps Recessed legs to prevent injury Quick and easy wedge lock assembly Lifetime warranty Specifications: Twin Size Dimensions: 7.2 H x 39 W x 75L Full Size Dimensions: 7.2 H x 54 W x 75 L Queen Size Dimensions: 7.2 H x 60 W x 80 L King Size Dimensions: 7.2 H x 76 W x 80 L California King Dimensions: 7.2 H x 72 W x 84 L



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Rubber Foam Pillows

Antique Clawfoot Bathtub

It has been alleged that every thing old is new again, that is if you can hold on to it far a prolonged enough measure of time. If you are reconstructing or building from scratch, the hot product in the lavatory interior decoration is the antique claw foot bathtub. If you like to go to garage sales or antique stores, you might want to keep an eye out for these exceptional bathing tubs. The appeal of the claw foot bathtub would lend a warming and cozy feel to the room. The design of the tubs states you possess exceptional good sense of style. They would soon become the focus of the restroom.

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You do not have to be concerned about the condition of the bathtub. Even if it has been outdoors and unnoticed for many years, it may nevertheless be repaired and brought back to a great look that you can be proud to feature in your house. The procedure of bathtub refinishing will establish the antique claw foot bathtub a brand-new lifespan. But the refinishing is not restricted to just one coloring. While white is the most common for the inside, bone and almond can be likewise applied. The interior of the bathtub might be fixed if it sustains chips or even cracks on it. The end final result would be comparable to uncovering a treasure. The inside may be as polished and fresh looking as a brand new tub.

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The outside of the cast iron claw foot bath tub is honest as unbelievable. The procedure on the external is to sandblast to remove paint, rust, corrosion, and of course the grime and dirt. The following step is to fill in the rough places and sand until smooth. The exterior would be sealed and the next decision would be which color you pick. Many refinishing professionals provide a stone finish too.

The claw feet are a character of the widespread impression of the bathtub. The claw feet as well can and will be refinished. They can be refinished to either contrast or to match with the tub. From nickel, gold, chrome or even bronze, the option is for you to decide. Do not forget to complete the antique tub with the replication drains, faucets, handles, and overflow covers to make the newfound treasure functional. Along with the large mixture of styles and finishes, there is something for each
preference, fashion and demand.

Another supplies will include the claw foot shower tub. This includes the shower, the frame for the shower curtain and the riser. The claw foot shower curtain and the curtain rings will be purchased separately. The curtain will be hung up on the frame that is suspended from the ceiling.

Antique Clawfoot Bathtub
Frame Risers

Pine Headboard King Love Sack Bean Bag Pano Tripod Head

Structures by Malouf STEELOCK Super Duty Steel Wedge Lock Metal Bed Frame - LIFETIME WARRANTY, Full

Cyber Monday Structures by Malouf STEELOCK Super Duty Steel Wedge Lock Metal Bed Frame - LIFETIME WARRANTY, Full 2011 Deals

Dec 06, 2011 23:19:06

Cyber Monday Structures by Malouf STEELOCK Super Duty Steel Wedge Lock Metal Bed Frame - LIFETIME WARRANTY, Full Deals
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Structures by Malouf STEELOCK Super Duty Steel Wedge Lock Metal Bed Frame - LIFETIME WARRANTY, Full

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Cyber Monday Structures by Malouf STEELOCK Super Duty Steel Wedge Lock Metal Bed Frame - LIFETIME WARRANTY, Full Feature

  • No Tools Required, Assembles Easily in Seconds
  • Extra Wide Construction Offset to Fit Virtually All Headboards
  • Lifetime Warranty
  • Six 2-1/2" Rug Rollers, Two Locking
  • 2-1/2" Double Rail Angle Iron Center Support


Cyber Monday Structures by Malouf STEELOCK Super Duty Steel Wedge Lock Metal Bed Frame - LIFETIME WARRANTY, Full Overview

Support your mattress with the sturdiest bed frame design available. The unique wedgelock connectors become stronger as more weight is applied and can support virtually any practical weight. The bed frame assembles easily in seconds with absolutely no tools. Features a lifetime manufacturer's warranty against defects and workmanship. The six rug rollers are 2-1/2" wide and with two of the rollers locking. The center support bar is 2-1/2" wide and made from double rail angle iron. Side rails with protective end caps and crossarms are both 1-1/2" x 1-1/2". Extra wide construction offset to fit virtually all headboards. Deeply recessed legs provide extra toe room and prevent foot injury. Powder coated in a stylish black matte. Available in Cal King, King, Queen, Full, and Twin configurations.



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Creating an Accessible Home - Assisted Modifications For the Elderly, Disabled, Or Handicapped

As promised, this is a second of a series of articles discussing ways to make a home more accessible. My first article talked about general construction of a barrier free home. The related articles will address specific tweaks to make it easier to overcome environmental problems.

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What I have observed is that people without physical limitations often do not appreciate how difficult simple everyday tasks can be to someone who is physically compromised. Many times a small modification can remove an obstacle. By presenting these examples of problems and solutions, I hope to raise awareness of problems and inspire people to look for answers.

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Problems/Solutions:

Doorways openings are too small/Offset Door Hinges - The obvious answer is through construction - widen doorways. There is a cheaper, less disruptive approach. Offset door hinges will give you an extra 2 inches with very little effort and cost.

Turning round doorknobs/Levered Doorknobs - Round doorknobs can be difficult for people with limited grasp. With a lever, all you need to do to open a door is to push down on the lever. You can replace all the doorknobs in the house with levered ones but this means changing locks and that can get expensive. An alternative approach would be to put conversion lever attachments over existing round knobs. Locks would not need to be changed and the cost would be less with this problem solver.

Standing from a seated position/Furniture Risers or a Lift Chair - Standing from a low level can create problems for someone with limited leg strength. By raising the seat to a higher level, it takes less effort to stand, possibly making the task achievable. Furniture Riser can raise the whole chair from 2" to 5". Another option would be a Lift Chair. These chairs automatically lift the chair seat with the push of a button. Chairs online begin at about 0 and go up. My online purchase saved me about 0; I paid 0 when the suggested retail was 0. Shipping was free. An additional feature in many of these electronically operated chairs is that they also can recline with the push of a button.

Turning Faucets/Automatic Faucets - Normal aging, a stroke, arthritis, or some other medical problem may cause the simple, everyday activity of turning a faucet to be frustrating. An automatic faucet can be mounted to your existing faucet. Simply run an object under the faucet and your water comes on automatically. It will then stay on until you move from under the sensor. Online prices start at around .

Grasping and turning a small switch/Touch Lamps - Limited grasp caused by arthritis or other health problems can make the activity of holding a small object like a light switch and turning it difficult. A touch lamp can be operated by coming in contact with a metal surface on the lamp. You can buy new touch lamps or just put a Touch Lamp Converter into your existing lamps.

Opening widow coverings/Motorized Window Blinds - Do you, a friend or relative have a dark house because the blinds were never opened? Sunlight can work wonders on a person's psyche making this an important problem to fix. The inability to reach the controls to operate window coverings is a very common problem. It is not unusual for furniture to block access. With motorized blinds, you use a remote to point and click to open or close blinds. A cheaper fix for those who can reach controls but find it difficult to turn wand controllers is to buy blinds where pulling a cord opens or closes the blinds.

Getting over thresholds when using a wheelchair/Wheelchair friendly threshold - Your normal door threshold has a small hump so there is not a gap between the bottom of the door and the floor. Unfortunately, a wheelchair user must be very careful that both wheels hit the hump at the same time or the chair will rock, threatening a collision with the door frame. You can replace the raised threshold plate with a flat one but then must put a weather proofing strip on the bottom of the door to close the gap. This item is available at most hardware stores.

Getting out of bed/Bed Handle - For people with the problem of getting out of bed independently, a bed handle may be the solution. This bedrail gives a person something to pull up with, helps them turn in bed, or can provide support when standing. It is only about 1 1/2 feet long which is shorter than a normal bedrail. This short rail is not effective for keeping someone in bed, however, it provides something to grasp while being short enough to allow someone to swing their legs over the side to stand.

Many times only minor changes are necessary to bring an obstacle down to size. The first step to problem solving is to recognize the actual stumbling block. Once identified, consider whether an alternative approaches would help you reach the goal.

Creating an Accessible Home - Assisted Modifications For the Elderly, Disabled, Or Handicapped
Frame Risers

Cyber Monday Trundle Bed Frame with Riser 2011 Deals

Dec 05, 2011 23:29:56

Cyber Monday Trundle Bed Frame with Riser Deals
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Trundle Bed Frame with Riser

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Cyber Monday Trundle Bed Frame with Riser Overview

12423 Features: -Trundle bed frame with riser. -Metal construction. -Two box springs. -Assembly required. -Steel tube dimensions: 0.05'' H x 0.05'' W x 0.05'' D. -Poplar slat dimensions: 54'' W x 9'' D.



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15" Bed Risers

Cyber Monday 15" Bed Risers 2011 Deals

Dec 04, 2011 23:40:34

Cyber Monday 15
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15

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Cyber Monday 15" Bed Risers Feature

  • Add Up to 54 cubic feet of storage space.
  • Raise the luxury look of your bedding to new heights.
  • Get in or out of your bed easier than before.
  • Easy to install.
  • Installs to any metal bed frame.


Cyber Monday 15" Bed Risers Overview

15 inch BedRizers attach to any standard bed frame giving 15 inches of space from the floor to the bottom of the bed frame. Use these risers to give your bed that tall luxurious look or to add some extra storage to your bedroom. One set of BedRizers includes 6 legs (4 corner legs and 2 center support legs). Twin and Full size bed frames only require the 4 corner legs but for extra support, you can add the center legs. Queen and King size bed frames require 4 corner legs and 2 support legs to be installed for optimum strength. BedRizers have been put through rigorous testing and have proved to be STRONGER THAN THE EXISTING LEGS of a standard bed frame.



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